The things that look simple aren't always simple to make. Some of the simplest looking clothes can be the most difficult to get right. A beautifully cut shirt, a pair of wide-leg trousers that fall perfectly, a bias cut skirt that moves with the body or a simple linen dress with very little apparent detail. They can look effortless but effortless looking clothing often requires a lot of thought behind the scenes.
After more than 30 years working across fashion design, pattern-making and garment production, I've learnt that good clothing is often about getting a surprising number of small things right. Over that time, I've learnt to look beyond what you see at first glance. The position of a seam, the balance of a pattern, the way a fabric falls or how a garment moves on the body can all make a difference. These details might seem small on their own, but together they are what make a garment feel considered, comfortable and right.
Good design isn't always about adding more. Often, it's about knowing what to leave out and getting the important things exactly right.
— Jo Appel
Simple Doesn't Mean Easy
When a garment is highly detailed, there are plenty of elements competing for your attention. With a simple garment, there is nowhere to hide. Proportion becomes important, design lines matter, fabric needs to behave as intended, seams need to sit correctly and the garment needs to move with the body. A simple shirt has nowhere to hide a poorly positioned shoulder seam, a wide-leg trouser needs the right balance through the waist, hip and leg to fall correctly and a bias cut garment can be particularly unforgiving when the fabric is cut incorrectly changing the drape and movement. The simplicity you see on the outside often relies on quite a lot of work underneath.
Fabric Changes Everything
One of the first things I consider when designing a garment is the fabric. Not simply how it looks, but how it behaves. How does it drape? Does it hold its shape? Does it soften with wear? How does it respond to pressing and sewing? Does it have enough structure for the silhouette I'm creating?
This is particularly important when working with natural fibres such as linen and cotton, where the character of the fabric is very much part of the finished garment. A pattern that works beautifully for one fabric may not work at all in another. This is why I don't believe you can separate fabric, pattern and construction - they have to work together.
I always start with the fabric. You can't force a fabric to become something it doesn't want to be. The design has to work with the character of the cloth.
Fit Is About More Than Measurements
A garment can technically be the right size and still not feel right. The shoulder might sit slightly too far forward, the armhole might restrict movement, the sleeve may be the wrong length, the waistband might sit in a position that isn't comfortable when you move. These details can be small, but they change how a garment feels on the body.
Good garment fit comes from the relationship between the pattern, the fabric, the construction and the person wearing it. Sometimes the difference between a garment you love and one you never reach for really can be just a few of millimetres.
There is a point in the making of a garment where an idea on paper becomes something real. The pattern is tested, the fabric is cut, seams are stitched and the garment is pressed, fitted and assessed. Sometimes something looks right but doesn't feel right.
Pattern alterations are made. Sometimes it's a tiny adjustment. Sometimes it means starting again. That's part of good garment construction. It's not simply about making something look beautiful. It's about making sure the fabric, fit and construction work together.
The Questions That Matter
What makes a garment feel well made?
It isn't just one thing. The fabric, fit, pattern and construction all need to work together. A well-made garment feels considered when you put it on. It sits properly, moves comfortably and feels right on the body.
Does a higher price always mean better quality?
No. Price alone doesn't tell you how well a garment has been designed or made. Look at the fabric, the construction, the finishing and the fit. Is it lined? How are internal seams finished?
How can I tell if a garment has been thoughtfully designed?
Look at the details. Does the fabric suit the shape? Do the seams sit where they should? Is there enough room to move? Does the garment fall well from different angles? Often, good design is less about what has been added and more about what has been carefully considered.
What questions should I ask before buying a garment?
Will I enjoy wearing it? Does it fit and move well? Is the fabric appropriate for the design? Is it made well enough to withstand regular wear? And perhaps most importantly, can I see myself wearing it often, not just this season?
Why It Matters
For me, good design ultimately comes back to one thing, wearability. A garment shouldn't simply look good in a photograph or on a hanger. It should feel good when you're wearing it, move with you, wash well and continue to earn its place in your wardrobe. This is the approach I bring to Twill & Tee, with a focus on natural fibres, considered pattern-making and garment construction. The details might be small. The difference they make isn't. And when those details have been considered properly, you notice the difference every time you wear it. That's what makes a garment worth keeping.
Jo Appel
Founder & Designer
Twill & Tee